Genesee, the Rabbit Hole

As America approaches yet another Independence Day celebration, I’m reminded that sometimes a chance encounter while fly fishing will unveil an interesting portrait of human freedom.

A couple of weeks ago I was fishing yet another caddis hatch, the kind that makes DSCN9079the upper Genesee River noteworthy. I was heading upstream in a clear and comfortable evening, catching trout left and right on a Grannom dry, when looking toward the bend pool I could see a fly line in the air and could hear soft words being spoken as if to a son or a fishing buddy. It took a while before I could view the bearded fellow, a big man with glasses, who appeared to be about my age. The partner he’d been talking to while landing trout was a lively little terrier.

We approached each other and I saw that the small dog carried a bag of angling paraphernalia in its mouth. I said, “Oh, you’ve got your helper with you tonight,” and the fly fisher, whose name is John, replied, “My ghillie.”

We exchanged fishing reports, and I learned that John loves to fly cast on the headwaters of streams, as I do, way up in “the nose bleed section” where no one else is found– unless one chances upon another madman or iconoclast in love with native trout.

I'm Iron Skeeter!

I’m Iron Skeeter!

John fishes the wilder streams of New York and Pennsylvania, and he knows many of my favorites like Slate and Cedar Run. He fishes them remotely, “where you can die of dehydration and exhaustion if you go in with a bloated ego and aren’t prepared for canyon walking.”

One of John’s fishing heroes was Fran Betters but he knew him only late in life, when the Ausable shopkeeper had to sit while fly-fishing or when tying Adirondack patterns at his vise. “Nowadays I like to sit on my ass while fishing, like Fran had to do,” said John. I reminded him that it’s not easy sitting down while checking out the rivertops.

John and his canine partner were about to leave and head back toward the parking lot when he said, “Oh wait, I’ve got a story you’ll appreciate.” It goes something like this…

What consenting turtles do in the privacy of their own creek is none of my damn business, but....

What consenting turtles do in the privacy of their own creek is none of my damn business, but….

“One time I was fishing near the state fish hatchery on Oswayo Creek in Potter County. I saw a guy fishing there who acted as though he didn’t want anyone to know what he was doing. I approached him and saw a fly rod being tossed into the grass. As he tore off his vest and tried to chuck that, too, I saw four or five cans of Falstaff Beer falling out to the edge of the creek. I couldn’t believe a guy would drink that shit. Falstaff! Anyway, the guy looked totally embarrassed and we finally introduced ourselves. Are you ready for this? The fellow was none other than Joe Humphreys (legendary Pennsylvania fly-fisher and writer, angling partner of Jimmy Carter…). The only time I ever met him!”

down the rabbit hole (1)

down the rabbit hole (1)

I had a name for the bend pool in the Genesee where I’d met John. I was starting to consider renaming it the Rabbit Hole in honor of Alice and her entry into Wonderland. Meanwhile I thanked John for the story, hoping the iconic Humphreys wouldn’t mind my retelling if the anecdote was true. If the tale was authentic, it would spice up my own reflections gathered from years of fishing that remote but favorite stream.

Before he left, I asked John where he lives and what he does when not out fishing. He lives within an hour’s drive of the Genesee and he likes to read books and make music. “I don’t have a TV, radio or computer. I just read and make CDs. About 100 of them so far.”

4 of "100 CDs"

4 of “100 CDs”

A hundred albums? Do you write songs?

“No, not really. But sometimes, yeah, about my friends like this dog, right here. I’ve been featured on Dr. Demento, stuff like that.”

Dr. Demento…

He wanted to know which vehicle was mine so that he could leave some CD samples on my car. When I left the Rabbit Hole and returned to the parking lot at dusk, I found four self-produced albums, and I played one while driving home.

down the rabbit hole (2)

down the rabbit hole (2)

Listening to the music I found I wasn’t done with the Rabbit Hole experience yet. Not by a long shot. I listened to “Songs and Legends of Allegany County,” and perused the song titles of “There’s Something Funny Going On in Steuben County,” “Fantastic Fish Stories,” and “A Cat of More Than 9 Tails.”

Wild. Bizarre. Satirical and hilarious. Original. In tune with local history and an independent spirit. I recalled my old Patrick Sky album, the infamous “Songs That Made America Famous.”

down the rabbit hole (3)

down the rabbit hole (3)

I can say this as someone who has long appreciated music as unworldly as that of Captain Beefheart’s or The Residents’. John Bartles and the Diode Trio should have a major label, but rest assured they’ll never get one. You can sample a few Demento-esque songs on You Tube, but be warned (as John B. says): It’s music unsuited for audiences of ANY age (heh heh).

If you don’t mind rough language or no-holds-barred lyrics that, thankfully, make a serious point or intentionally have no point except to guide you through the Halls of Academentia, I’d recommend listening to You Tube’s “Cut My Own Head Off,” “American Hypocrite,” and “Calling All Humans” by John Bartles. Otherwise let your imagination riot.

out of the rabbit hole, i think...

out of the rabbit hole, i think…

The few offerings on You Tube barely suggest a listening experience such as that found in my CD, “Songs and Legends of Allegany County,” but they do offer a start.

Hey, only in America, folks, and in any other country where my friends are reading this. When you have it, freedom is a wonderful thing.

not quite

not quite




About rivertoprambles

Welcome to Rivertop Rambles. This is my blog about the headwaters country-far afield or close to home. I've been a fly-fisher, birder, and naturalist for most of my adult life. I've also written poetry and natural history books for thirty years. In Rambles I will mostly reflect on the backcountry of my Allegheny foothills in the northern tier of Pennsylvania and the southern tier of New York State. Sometimes I'll write about the wilderness in distant states, or of the wild places in the human soul. Other times I'll just reflect on the domestic life outdoors. In any case, I hope you enjoy. Let's ramble!
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18 Responses to Genesee, the Rabbit Hole

  1. plaidcamper says:

    Well, life is gloriously kind sometimes! Checked out the YouTube clips you mentioned, and laughed some. Calling all humans, indeed. John B seems a wonderful individual, an irreverent independent, and what an unlikely encounter you had out there.
    Thanks for sharing, Walt, very much appreciated. (The photographs here are apt, almost otherworldly…beautiful!)

  2. Plaid, John B. is a fella having fun in an innocent, irreverent way, a guy that some folks might consider bat crazy (the songs about Allegany/Steuben, my home counties, with all their place names and true-to-life scenarios might be considered damning evidence) but he’s a gentle soul, too, who knows how to fly fish and be close to nature. I enjoyed his brief company and I’m glad you see the worth in this.

  3. Grandpa says:

    Hi, Walt, long time no read……………… been away for awhile getting things in my life in priority health wise and getting some time with the family. Great to come back and read this refreshing post and know that each day on the water has its own story and set of characters. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

    • Wonderful to see you back here, Mel, and I look forward to catching up with you on your new blog. I know what you mean about prioritizing, especially with regard to health and family. And you’re right, if each new day on the water can open up a small new vista on another story or way of seeing life, then the effort is more than worthwhile. Thank you.

  4. Bob Stanton says:

    Wow, I’ll call it a fateful, rather than chance, encounter. It’s things like this that make life so grand sometimes. I’ll check out the YouTube vids.

  5. loydtruss says:

    Great post, just goes to show one never meets a stranger on the streams and tailraces we all fish. I’ll take a look at the YouTube video. As always thanks for sharing

  6. JZ says:

    Crazy story Walt. Folstaf is a wading staff, not a beer. (smile)

  7. Brent says:

    This story is certainly worthy of a Wonderland-type adventure. Fall into the aquatic rabbit hole, find the local flavor, and discover something truly wild in your world that you never even knew existed. What a great way to launch a time of year intended to celebrate those things that make this country great and unique! I’ll have to find these Youtube clips.

    • Thanks Brent. Sometime I’ll have to loan you the CDs about Allegany and Steuben. Even Canisteo, Greenwood and West Union are included in the humerous lyrics. Have an enjoyable holiday weekend.

  8. Doug says:

    I used to love the Dr. Demento show. Listened to it every week. Remember, Dead Skunk in the middle of the road? I remember everything you said was on those CD’s. Early Weird Al Yankovic, Captain Beefheart always a big favorite, not just from Alleghany, but demented music from all over. I think you have to be our age to have appreciated that stuff. Especially when it was happening. A giant rabbit whole of the brain unleashed. Great blogs this week Walt, as usual. I like brent’s Wonderland-type adventure, because it certainly fits.

  9. Hey Doug, thanks for weighing in on this post. As an old-timer, I used to like the Dr. Demento thing, too, but never got to hear it that much. A lot of the stuff I like is probably fit for the show, if it wasn’t included. Feels great to take a leap or a swim through the old rabbit hole, indeed!

  10. And this is why I love the outdoors and fly fishing. You just never know.

    • I agree, Howard; it’s like what drives us to investigate what’s round the next stream bend; it’s what gets us up to go fishing on a free day, and it’s sometimes the equivalent of counting sheep at night after we’ve had a few and are ready to capture some earned ZZZs.

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