A Short Walk on the Longest Trail

Human nature being what it is, we sometimes ignore the valuable resource right before our eyes while gazing at greener pastures out around the bend. Sadly, I’ve pretty much ignored America’s longest foot path even though it passes my backyard just a dozen miles downstream. I’d like to rectify this oversight beginning now.

The North Country National Scenic Trail (NCNST) stretches some 4,600 miles across the northern U.S. from New York State to central North Dakota. It’s the longest of America’s  eleven national scenic trails authorized by Congress. Managed by various federal, state and local agencies, this longest trail in America can be accessed within a dozen miles or so from my backyard. And for some strange reason or another, I hardly know a mile of it.

Luckily I can get more acquainted with the national pathway, which is still being developed across the states, by stepping to the well-known Finger Lakes Trail (FLT) that coincides with it for 380 miles in New York  State. The Finger Lakes Trail is more definable as a natural feature than the longer route and is less dependent on highway passage. As such, it’s easier for my “hiking mind” to get a handle on this recreational opportunity.

With a short drive into the hills of New York’s Southern Tier, I can easily access the fine foot trail also known as “one of upstate’s best-kept secrets.” The FLT takes in a mix of public and private lands and constitutes the longest continuous hiking trail in the state. Whereas thousands have hiked the entirety of the Appalachian Trail, only eleven people have currently walked the entirety of the North Country Trail. The Finger Lakes Trail has been completely walked by more than 350 hikers at this point, and one person has apparently hiked the whole route on 10 separate occasions. I had walked a few small stretches of it in the past, but never with a purpose of shaking its hand. I stepped to the trail like a humble dog, happy to get acquainted and to sniff around with pleasure.

It was Earth Day, a symbolic time (once more) to step above routine and recognize the fact that, damnit all, human beings aren’t really as big as we think we are; we have tremendous capabilities for both destruction and for care, and now is a good a time as any to see where we’ve come from and to look at our next move.

I parked on the high hills north of Canisteo and entered the Burt Hill State Forest via the Finger Lakes Trail. At first my path led through a red pine plantation where I flushed a ruffed grouse nearby. The trail made a half mile drop through secondary woods to the Burt Hill lean-to, a site I had read about and wanted to see first-hand. No one was there on Earth Day morning, but a phoebe gave its rasping two-note call nearby and it wasn’t long before I saw a year-old nest constructed under the eaves. There is a picnic table and a fire-ring in front, a privy constructed about a hundred feet off among the hemlocks. The lean-to occupies a remote and peaceful location, although every now and then I caught a glimpse of giant turbines through the barren trees.

Contemplating those windmills on a neighboring ridge, I could hear the whirring of silver blades, a sound like distant wind. I have no objection to wind energy, as long as the turbines have been located somewhere other than on a major migratory bird route, as long as they actually help to decrease our total amounts of energy consumption (I am not yet convinced), and yes… as long as I didn’t have to live right next to them.

I hiked back to the road and crossed to where the trail runs westward on Burt Hill. I descended to a point where the meadows begin. From there I could gaze westward for miles, to think about this place so close to home, and to think about the thousands of miles to North Dakota where the North Country Trail comes to an end. Out there, wintry weather still reigns over the land this day. Out there my Earth Day thoughts took rest.